This trip to Helsinki was the first time in as long as I can remember that cold and I have been so intimate. It was the kind of cold that permeates to your core and settles in, continuing to chill from the inside even after you've moved to a warmer place. I think I got an idea of the dangers of cold, and the huge difference that just continuing to move makes. It's something that kind of taps awake your lizard brain, brings you back to the necessities and what really matters (which is not fucking freezing to death).
























The progression from uncomfortably cold to unbearably cold drove me into this little bohemian-looking cafe across from the Christmas-colored church, one of the few open cafes in the area. The owner had dreadlocks and spoke wonderful English (though I don't actually think he spoke much Finnish, so must've been from somewhere else).